That’s what my dearest heart (sitting across the table) made me for my birthday dinner tonight: chicken breast with fig and herb stuffing, chopped cabbage salad, and potatoes dauphinoise. We drank a Riesling that was, alas, flabby, but it was my fault, and anyway, it’s kind of fitting, given the state of my middle-aged corpus. Good times. I am blessed beyond all telling. Except in my Riesling supply. And my tummy tum-tum. Hope you had a good Valentine’s Day too. Below, a V-Day VFYT sent by St. Francisville friends vacationing this week in Paris. They dined Chez Fernand, in the 6th. That looks like pâté en croute, but the more I think of it, the more I’m guessing foie gras: