Neuilly, France

Fred, our Paris bureau chief, sends this one of the dinner table chez lui set for Christmas Even guests. It’s not a mess because the guests haven’t yet arrived. Joyeux Noel to you readers in the most beautiful city on earth!

I’m going to take a break from the maximum heaviosity and post a string of Views From Your Christmas Table. Please send them and I’ll post them as I can, between cooking and feasting tonight. We are lighting the candles in the Starhill Cemetery at dusk. And then there will be gumbo.