What are you cooking for Easter? We Orthodox won’t celebrate Easter until next weekend, but this is what I’m planning to cook: Gigot a Sept Heures, or Seven-Hour Leg of Lamb. It’s a glorious thing, leg of lamb slow-cooked in wine and herbs. I have never made it with the beans, though, but let me tell you how good it is: when I served it to an Orthodox priest once, he said that it was the best lamb he had ever tasted. I believed him, too. It’s that good.

I’ll be traveling for a day after noon tomorrow, so I won’t be able to approve comments easily until I get situated in Paris with le wi-fi. Please comment away, though. I’d be interested to know what you’re going to make for Easter.

You better believe that Your Working Boy is going to find himself at Huitrerie Regis with a dozen cold ones and a bottle of Chablis as soon as his fat little feet will walk him there. After exhausting myself trying to pronounce “Huitrerie” (oyster house) in a proper French way, I’ll need the reward.