Olive Oil Confidential

Did you know that much of the olive oil on store shelves is really inferior stuff, and that some of it is not even pure olive oil at all? Who knew? Here’s some advice for the gourmand:

Given that so many “extra-virgin” oils are actually inferior oils cut with other products, where should the average shopper buy his oil?

Ideally, at a mill, where you can see the fresh olives turned into oil, and get to know the miller—in an industry where the label means so little, personal trust in the people who have made and sold it is important. Barring this, try to visit a store where you can taste before you buy; an increasing number of olive-oil specialty stores exists throughout America, even in small towns and unexpected corners of the country. In a conventional retail store, certain characteristics of labelling and bottling suggest (though they don’t guarantee) high quality: a harvest date (as opposed to a meaningless “best by” date), a specific place of production and producer, mention of the cultivar of olives used, dark glass bottles (light degrades olive oil), a D.O.P. seal on European oils, and a California Olive Oil Council seal on oil made in the U.S.

So now you know. I used to think olive oil was no big whoop, until I tried a real one. The difference between ordinary supermarket olive oil and a well-made one is like the difference between Bud Light and Dogfish Head.